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Lecce: zo leuk is de barokstad in Puglia

Jarenlang stond Lecce beter bekend als ‘het Florence van het zuiden’. Maar de stad die vol staat met barokke schoonheid, gezellige wijnwinkels en goede restaurants speelt zichzelf steeds beter in de kijker. Met hulp van locals proefde redacteur Liselotte de stad alvast voor.

Fotografie: Liselotte van Leest

Lecce ligt in het diepe zuiden van Italië, waar de zon een groot deel van het jaar volop schijnt. Een aantrekkelijk gegeven, vond de Nederlandse Joelle. Genoeg van de grijze lucht in Nederland en klaar met een carrière in de modewereld, gooide ze tweeënhalf jaar geleden het roer om en startte er het knusse B&B Little Dolce. Ze neemt me mee naar haar favoriete stekjes.

Pauselijke allure
Tijdens een rondleiding door het centrum van Lecce zorgt Joelle dat mijn oog niets ontgaat. ‘Kijk vooral eens naar boven, je ziet dan nog zoveel meer. Let bijvoorbeeld op de sculpturen die de balkons “omhoog houden” of de familiewapens boven de deuren. Lecce is ook zo mooi als je omhoog kijkt.’ Het grootste deel van de pracht en praal hier is gebouwd in de zeventiende en achttiende eeuw, toen plaatselijke bisschoppen de stad de allure van het pauselijke Rome wilden geven. Daarbij werd gebruik gemaakt van pietra leccese, poreus tufsteen dat met de jaren een gouden kleur krijgt. De barokke kerken en palazzi in dit goudkleurige steen maken Lecce vandaag een pareltje, dat steeds populairder wordt onder Italiëgangers.

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Piano, piano
Joelle vertelt me dat het Zuid-Italiaanse leven haar uitstekend bevalt. ‘De warmte van de mensen is zo fijn hier, alles gaat veel gemoedelijker dan ik was gewend. Het leven gaat echt piano, piano. Soms zie je een briefje op een winkeldeur met de tekst: “Ben over tien minuten terug. En zo niet, dan lees dit bericht nog maar eens”’, lacht ze. ‘Die man kan dan wel twee uur weg zijn, daar ga ik echt niet op wachten!’ Net als op veel andere plekken in Italië, sluiten ook in Lecce de winkels hun deuren in de middag. ‘De stad is het leukst en levendigst in de ochtend én vanaf een uurtje of vijf om te shoppen, te borrelen en rond te kijken. Wanneer de winkels gesloten zijn, raad ik mijn gasten aan om lekker uitgebreid te gaan lunchen en koffie te drinken.’ Op hete zomerdagen – en daar zitten de inwoners niet om verlegen – kun je de stad zelfs beter in de middag vermijden en op een van de stranden in de buurt gaan liggen. ‘Over koffie gesproken, ben je al bij Caffè Cittadino geweest?’, vraagt Joelle me als we de koffiebar aan het Piazza Sant’Oronzo passeren. ‘Daar moet je echt even een nocciolino proeven, kom!’ Dat blijkt een uitstekend idee; we krijgen een ijscoupe geserveerd die gevuld is met hazelnootijs, nootjes, chocoladesaus en een laagje tiramisu.

Restauranttips van Joelle van B&B Little Dolce:
Ristorante Blu Notte ‘De antipasti van verschillende vissoorten en de truffelpasta zijn niet te versmaden.’ Via Brancaccio 2
Vico dei Sotterranei ‘Een van mijn lievelingsrestaurants. De tonijnsteak met sesamzaad is hier vreselijk lekker.’ Vico dei Sotterranei 3

De smaak van Lecce
Voor meer culinaire specialiteiten ga ik ’s middags te rade bij Giovanni, geboren en getogen in Lecce en werkzaam als gids. We beginnen bij het populaire cafeetje Doppio Zero met een caffè in ghiaccio e latte di mandorla, koffie met ijs en amandelmelk. Die amandelmelk heeft overigens meer weg van siroop, dankzij de hoeveelheid suiker, maar dat maakt ’m misschien nog wel lekkerder. Laat je niet afschrikken door de lange naam, met kortweg caffè leccese (spreek uit als ‘letsjeese’) krijg je het koude drankje ook geserveerd. Giovanni: ‘Wat je dit weekend op zijn minst moet hebben geproefd? Ten eerste een pasticciotto, een cakeje gevuld met crème dat hier al een paar honderd jaar gegeten wordt. Velen zijn het er over eens dat je de beste bij Pasticceria Natale eet. En natuurlijk probeer je een rustico, een broodje van bladerdeeg gevuld met mozzarella, bechamelsaus en tomaten.’ ‘En puccia?’, vraag ik hem, omdat ik dit woord al op talloze uithangborden heb zien staan. ‘Ja, ook noteren!’, zegt hij enthousiast. ‘Een puccia is een combinatie van een pizzabodem en een panino en wordt belegd naar keuze. Oh en ik vergeet helemaal de cotognata leccese: een stevige jam van kweeperen. De cotagnata wordt in de herfst geproduceerd, maar het hele jaar door gegeten.’

Restauranttips van Giovanni:
Corte dei Pandolfi ‘Dit restaurant is gelegen aan een rustig pleintje en serveert lokale gerechten.’ Corte dei Pandolfi 3 
Cucina Casereccia ‘Veelgeprezen restaurant dat beter bekend staat onder zijn bijnaam “Le Zie”: de tantes’. Via Costadura 19

Papieren poppen
Om niet met louter culinaire tips thuis te komen, wil ik van Giovanni ook meer horen over de lokale tradities. Hij wijst me op de vele poppen in de straten, gemaakt van cartapesta, papier-maché. Originele decoraties waar je van moet houden, maar dat maakt Giovanni niet minder trots. En vermoedelijk vele inwoners met hem, te zien aan de verzameling papieren figuren in de stad. Giovanni: ‘Het is een zeer oude en goedkope manier om kunstwerken te maken. Het enige wat je nodig hebt is krantenpapier, water, gips, stro en lijm.’ Werkelijk alles van papier-maché vind je in de straten terug: ik spot verschillende bijbelfiguren, een hond, een heks en ergens een olifant. De mooiste en oudste werken zijn te zien in het Museo della Cartapesta (in het Castello Carlo V), waar je meer over deze eeuwenoude techniek te weten kunt komen.

Valse traditie
Een andere traditie uit zich in de vorm van muziek en speelt zich dagelijks af op het prachtige Piazza Sant’Oronzo, hoor ik van Joelle. Elke dag om twaalf uur schalt hier de muziek van zanger Tito Schipa uit de luidsprekers, de held van Lecce die in 1965 overleed. ‘Het klinkt voor geen meter’, zegt ze lachend. ‘Ik denk dat de speakers aan vervanging toe zijn. Maar ach, wat maakt het uit? Dat is toch juist grappig?’ Naar Nederland met zijn strakke regelgeving heeft Joelle geen heimwee. Integendeel. ‘Er woont een man bij mij in de steeg die elke dag zijn piano naar buiten sleept om er vervolgens op te gaan spelen. Het is natuurlijk hartstikke vals – een piano mag je immers helemaal niet verschuiven. Maar hij wordt er vrolijk van en de buurt vindt het prima. Geweldig toch?!’

Wijnliefde
In een stad waaromheen volop wijn wordt geproduceerd, is het niet lastig een wijnbar vinden. Zelfs op plekken waar je het niet zou verwachten; in Lecce lijkt een trend gaande te zijn waarin boekhandels naast hun papieren specialiteit ook wijn en delicatessen verkopen. Stap er eens binnen voor een glas wijn en tarelli (hartige Zuid-Italiaanse koekjes) of snuffel rond tussen de (Engelstalige) kookboeken. Het gezelligste straatje van Lecce, nabij de Santa Croce-kerk, doet echter niet aan mee aan deze hype. In de Via Umberto I worden louter wijn en eten geserveerd. De liefde voor wijn gaat hier ver. Op een bord lees ik: Amo talmente il vino che odio chi mangia l’uva (‘Ik houd zo veel van wijn, dat ik diegene die druiven eten haat’). Wie deze liefde deelt, vindt er veel gelijkgestemden; de gezellige wijnbarretjes in de steeg zitten elke avond nagenoeg vol.

Proef geslaagd
Op aanraden van onze online columnist Mark Bertrand bezoek ik mijn laatste avond wijnbar Mamma Elvira in de Via Umberto I. Het duurt even voordat obers me durven aan te spreken, vermoedelijk uit angst dat er onder mijn blonde kapsel geen Italiaanse taalkennis schuilgaat. Maar dat lijkt me juist een goed teken; blijkbaar komen hier meer locals dan toeristen. Ik geef aan dat de ober het wijnverhaal best in zijn moedertaal mag vertellen (een beetje overmoedig, want met Italiaanse wijntermen ben ik nauwelijks bekend) waarna de cameriere enthousiast van wal steekt. Het verhaal schiet voor mijn idee alle kanten op, van druivenrassen en kenmerken door naar productieprocessen. Maar bij het horen van een droge, doch fruitige witte wijn ben ik al overtuigd: het wordt een wijn van het druivenras verdeca, die ten noorden van de stad wordt geproduceerd. De naam dankt het ras aan zijn sterke groene kleur (verde betekent groen in het Italiaans). Het is een frisse wijn, die me goed smaakt. Zo goed, dat ik besluit meer van die ‘groene’ wijn te proeven.

Een uur en een rits lekkere en minder lekkere wijnen (de prosecco was mij te zoet) later, is het tijd om mijn werk in Lecce af te ronden. Het voorproeven had van mij nog uren, zo niet dagen, mogen voortduren. Toch heb ik genoeg prachtige plekken gezien en mooie verhalen gehoord. Ik heb van alle facetten van Lecce geproefd. En ik kan stellen: dat smaakt naar meer!

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DOEN – ETEN – SLAPEN

DOEN EN ZIEN

Piazza Sant’Oronzo
In het hart van Lecce ligt het Piazza Sant’Oronzo, bekend van het grote amfitheater, de zuil van Sant’Oronzo en de gotische Sedile waartegen het piepkleine kerkje San Marco gebouwd is. Het plein is een unieke mix van stijlen uit de geschiedenis.

Castello Carlo V
Dit castello uit de zestiende eeuw werd in opdracht van koning Carlo V gebouwd, ter bescherming van de stad. De militaire functie heeft plaatsgemaakt voor een cultureel doel. Het hele jaar door vinden er kunsttentoonstellingen plaats en kun je je verdiepen in regionale tradities, zoals die van het papier-maché in het permanente Museo della Cartapesta. Viale 25 Luglio

Santa Croce
De Santa Croce-kerk is beroemd vanwege haar prachtige barokke façade vol details. Op de gevel zie je onder meer beelden van bloemen, fruit, mythologische figuren en mensen. De bouw van de kerk nam meer dan 300 jaar in beslag. Het indrukwekkende palazzo ernaast was eens een klooster, nu huist er het provinciebestuur. Via Umberto I 3

Piazza Duomo
Dit plein is zowel met daglicht als na zonsondergang een plaatje. Uiteraard bezoek je hier het symbool van de stad, de Duomo Maria SS. Assunta (en de crypte!). Let vooral ook op de vele immense heiligenbeelden rondom het piazza.

Historisch Museum van Lecce
In het voormalige klooster van Santa Chiara is nu het lokale geschiedenismuseum gevestigd. Het Museo Storico della Città di Lecce behandelt de geschiedenis vanaf de tijd van de Messapi (een volk uit 800 v. Chr.) tot het heden. Vanuit het museum heb je tevens mooi zicht op een klein Romeins amfitheater. Via degli Ammirati 11

ETEN

Syrbar
Zoek ’s ochtends een plekje achterin en drink je koffie met een geweldig uitzicht op de Duomo. Via Libertini

Caffè Cittadino
Koffiebar aan het Piazza Sant’Oronzo. Probeer hier de nocciolino, een coupe met hazelnotenijs, chocola en tiramisu. Via Francesco Rubichi 35

Doppio Zero
Gezellig café waar je komt voor koffie in de ochtend of een uitgebreide lunch. Via Guglielmo Paladini 2

Pasticceria Natale
Banketbakkerij, ijssalon en chocolatier in één, nabij het Piazza Sant’Oronzo. Probeer er de pasticiotto. Via Salvatore Trinchese 7

Caffè Alvino
Alom geprezen bar, eveneens aan het Piazza Sant’Oronzo, die zich perfect leent voor een aperitivo in de zon. Piazza Sant’Oronzo 30

Trecentomilla
Moderne bar met goed Italiaans eten, net buiten het historische centum. Via Fanteria 11

Mamma Elvira
Gezellige wijnbar in het leukste straatje van Lecce, ook een aanrader om te eten. Via Umberto I 19

Quantobasta
Onlangs uitgeroepen tot de beste cocktailbar van Italië. Via Paladini 17

SLAPEN

Little Dolce €-€€
Wie de drempel van dit B&B passeert, loopt een zoet sprookje binnen. Het eeuwenoude palazzo is door de Nederlandse eigenaresse Joelle geweldig opgeknapt en sfeervol ingericht, waardoor je je er direct thuisvoelt. Bovendien deelt Joelle de leukste ins & outs van de stad graag met haar gasten. Heb je een romantische trip naar Lecce op de planning staan? Dan moet je beslist overnachten in de heerlijk ruime en gezellige romantic room.

Palazzo Rollo €-€€
Dit geweldige palazzo heeft een van de mooiste binnentuinen van Lecce, in het hart van het historische centrum. Het B&B biedt verzorgde kamers en tevens appartementen. Het hoogtepunt is het dakterras vanwaar je de toren van de Duomo bijna kunt aanraken. Eigenaresse Elena organiseert voor haar gasten ook kooklessen, wijnproeverijen en uitstapjes naar zee. Aanrader!

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    касающихся последовательности применения
    Очищение кожи (здесь логика Востока и Европы совпадает).

    Однако в случае с японскими средствами – для очищения может последовательно применяться скольконибудь средств.
    А некогда в неделю как минимум
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    Тонер (не тоник! ) ). Якобы многие из нас уже
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    Сыворотка. Несказанно гордо
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    жидкая, чем крем, формула, все она очень концентрированно насыщена действующими
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    В жизнь, когда вы применяете маску чтобы лица (японцы делают
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    И милый бонус – благодаря развитию технологий в Японии, требуются меньшие ресурсозатраты
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    Также подавляющее число линеек средств
    позволительно приписывать к гипоаллергенным,
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    помогают влиять для первоисточник настоящего состояния кожи (за исключением случаев,
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    Преимущественно славятся японские восстанавливающие шампуни они не маскируют проблемы
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